“Costume influences fashion, the way fashion influences costume; it is an interesting conversation.”
These words from Deborah Cantor, a renowned London costume designer, set the tone for an insightful Q&A session at Parsons the New School on June 18th. Hosted by Susanna Moyer, a distinguished professor at Parsons, the event aimed to provide students with a comprehensive look at the world of costume design through the lens of Deborah’s professional journey. Cantor’s extensive career and expertise offered a unique perspective, emphasizing the significant role that costume design plays in shaping television, media, and fashion trends.
The event also featured Melissa Shea, CEO and co-founder of Fashion Mingle, who connected Deborah and Susanna for the program, and who are also esteemed members of the Fashion Mingle community. Melissa introduced the purpose of Fashion Mingle, which is a global platform for fashion industry professionals that connects its 10,000+ members to jobs, freelance gigs, internships, and career opportunities.
Deborah’s Journey: From Passion to Profession
Deborah began the session by sharing her journey into the costume design industry. “I knew I wanted to get into fashion; that was always my goal. I ended up finding my way into costume by accident.” During a work experience at the BBC costume department, Cantor was given a glimpse into the dynamic realm of Costume Design. After graduating from Manchester Metropolitan University, she worked for high-profile magazines, including British Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. Despite her success in fashion, Cantor did not forget her experiences with costume design and ultimately decided to pursue a position within the BBC. “I was offered two weeks holiday cover …which turned into a very successful six years, and I never looked back.”
A Look Into Deborah’s Work
After extensive professional training at the BBC and currently working as a freelance costume designer for all the respected networks, Cantor describes her work as multifaceted, encompassing fashion-oriented projects and drama to entertainment-based work in TV, film, commercials, promos, music videos, etc.
Deborah touched on her experience with the learning curve of costume design: “I had to learn my craft.” She noted the constant shifts in periods when working for film and television, emphasizing the importance of knowing the historical context of each costume. When designing the costume for Channel 4’s The Extraordinary Life of April Ashley, Cantor explained her thoughtful incorporation of both pieces that were accurate to what public figure April Ashley wore, along with elements that embodied the era, character, and scene. For Deborah, creating a convincing character through costume is key to successful design & styling. “You invest in a character, and the viewer has to believe and feel this through the power of the visuals; as costume designers, we are storytellers. The choices I make for an actor to wear are important and most definitely collaborative.”
Deborah gave a thorough examination of her process as a costume designer, any limitations or parameters, and how she works around them to deliver high-quality work. “Research is imperative, I often give a back story to the character when in a fitting with an artist. Sometimes the turnaround time is so fast it can give a fluidity and freedom to my work,” she noted, highlighting the importance of being able to work skilfully and efficiently. When working in television and film, Cantor is given a script or a concept and then breaks it down to the era, scene, and color scheme. Costume houses are often a valuable resource; however, she also outsources specific items. For example, she visits areas in London like Brick Lane to access unique vintage pieces or source fabric for custom-made costumes.
When given a script, Cantor explained the necessity of breaking it down into story days: “You have to break down the script into days, characters, and costume changes.” A big part of television and film is continuity, which is categorized into direct and indirect continuity.
It’s essential to engage in discussions with various departments, from the visions of the set, designed by the production designer and art team to the hair and makeup designs crafted for each character by the department designer. This collaboration aims to integrate inspirations and creative visions across departments, alongside chief meetings with the producers and directors themselves to collectively bring their visions to life.
Cantor underlined that understanding the artist is crucial: “You have to know who your artist is and properly research who they are.” When working with presenters or actors who are playing themselves, it is especially important to consider their aesthetics and preferences to enhance their style rather than imposing a new one. She emphasizes the significance of building a relationship, which begins with ensuring they are comfortable and confident.
London Costume Design Experience
Deborah Cantor, based in London, originally joined Fashion Mingle to gain visibility in NYC and has since fostered long-lasting connections. When visiting New York, Fashion Mingle’s member events are among her first stops. Deborah and Melissa presented Fashion Mingle’s London Costume Design Experience, a week-long immersion into the world of costume design. This program was jointing conceived by Deborah and Melissa with the goal of providing hands-on experience for those with career aspirations in costume design. Participants will be taken on insider-only tours and workshops to learn about costume design ranging from royal inspiration, vintage costume sourcing, and theater productions, with a costume design workshop at the world famous Angels Costume House, to learn how to source, construct, and present a character mood board.
New York Fashion Week Experience
As a Fashion Mingle member, Susanna Moyer has worked closely with the Fashion Mingle team to provide educational opportunities for students from fashion programs around the world. Susanna is the founder of Global Fashion Mentorship, and is a creative director, business executive, and educator with a diverse background in fashion. She has worked with brands such as Christian Dior Paris and Liz Claiborne and founded her own collection, selling to top retailers for a decade.
Susanna leads the Luxury Fashion Tour as a part of Fashion Mingle’s New York Fashion Week Experience, where students go behind the scenes of New York’s luxury fashion and garment industry to gain real-world experience working backstage during New York Fashion Week, and being mentored by fashion professionals throughout the week.
A member and supporter of Fashion Mingle, Susanna encourages her students to register for the free Fashion Mingle student membership, emphasizing it is a valuable tool for industry networking, internships, and launching a career in the fashion industry.
Fashion Mingle Career Hub
Fashion Mingle is pioneering a global platform transforming how the fashion industry does business, establishing a vital resource for professionals to hire resources, foster collaborations and create innovation.
- One-stop shop for our 10,000+ members to find the best jobs, freelance gigs, and career opportunities.
- Powerful tools for creatives to build professional portfolios and promote their creative services.
- Exclusive entrepreneur community, insider connections, and invitation-only member events.
- Easy pipeline for companies to hire top talent and avoid the dreadful deluge of job scams and fake recruiters.
Join Melissa Shea, Deborah Cantor, and Susanna Moyer and other industry leaders on Fashion Mingle—a groundbreaking platform revolutionizing fashion networking worldwide. Your next career move awaits—join Fashion Mingle today and elevate your impact in the fashion industry!
- Good High School Letter Patches- 8 Key Characteristics - August 29, 2024
- Fashion Recruitment: Cultivating Talent in a Creative Industry - August 13, 2024
- Exploring the Intersection of Costume Design and Fashion at Parsons Q&A with Deborah Cantor - August 5, 2024
- 7 Steps To Creating Your Perfect Marketing Campaign - July 12, 2024
- What Are the Best Hair Vitamins for Women Over 50? - July 12, 2024