A model walking the runway wearing black gloves, jacket and skirt.

“Class of ’98” by Shao Yang Brings 90s Teen Spirit to the Runway

In Fashion Features, Fashion Week, New York Fashion Week by Victoria Roberts

Far from the sanitized nostalgia often seen in contemporary fashion, Shao Yang‘s latest collection, “Class of ’98,” presented at New York Fashion Week provides a daring reimagining of 1990s teenage rebellio and invites viewers to confront the raw and authentic essence of that era.

Imagine the year 1998: a high school classroom filled with the hum of youthful discontent and the unmistakable scent of rebellion. Shao Yang’s collection transports us back to this moment with striking accuracy. The garments evoke a nostalgic spirit—t-shirts layered over long-sleeve shirts, frayed corduroys, and worn-out Pumas, paired with a dangling latchkey. A Discman plays alt-rock through deteriorating foam headphones.

Photo Credit: Randy Brooke.

Yang’s “Class of ’98” is a sartorial homage to the 90s’ defining textures: leather, denim, and cashmere. Leather, a symbol of rebellion, is used in oversized bomber jackets and distressed pants. Denim, seen in ripped jeans and oversized jackets, offers a sturdy counter to the societal chaos of the time, a shield against the world’s madness. And cashmere, featured in layered sweaters and oversized scarves, contrasts sharply with the harsh realities of youth, providing a softness that mocks the challenges faced.

Central to the collection’s concept is the use of trompe-l’oeil techniques. These designs play with visual perception and expectations, challenging the viewer’s understanding of traditional fashion. Shirts that mimic layered looks and skirts designed to resemble oversized pants serve as metaphors for the layered personas of 90s youth, reflecting the decade’s penchant for illusion, where reality and appearance often collided.

Trompe-l’oeil garments in Yang’s collection include illusionary shirt-dress hybrids and faux layered looks. These pieces are reminiscent of the era’s infomercials promising Y2K survival or the fleeting hype surrounding various consumer goods. Yang’s use of trompe-l’oeil techniques effectively captures the complexity of a generation navigating its own social labyrinth.

Pinstripes, seen in tailored blazers and trousers, symbolize ambition and a clash with streetwear’s rebellious spirit. On the other hand, bombers and distressed denim reflect a more defiant, carefree attitude.

The dynamic tension of “Class of ’98” can be likened to a visceral experience—a collision of Bret Easton Ellis’s “American Psycho” with the raw emotionality of Kurt Cobain’s lyrics, underscored by a soundtrack reminiscent of Irvine Welsh’s chaotic narratives. This combination is a commentary on the era’s inherent contradictions. Yang’s collection reflects this intersection of high and low culture, traditional and modern, making it a compelling exploration of the 90s’ multifaceted identity.

DESIGNER SHAO YANG AND ANNA DELVEY WALK DOWN THE RUNWAY AT THE SHAO NYFW SS25 SHOW IN NEW YORK, NY ON SEPTEMBER 11, 2024.

Yang’s collection serves as both a critique of the idealized versions of the past and a testament to a generation that balanced the pressures of growing up with a fierce desire to resist conformity. The designs echo the defiance of those formative years, encapsulating the essence of an era that was, despite its chaos, genuinely raw and unrefined.

See the collection below:

 

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About Victoria Roberts

Born in Brazil, Victoria moved to the United States to pursue her dream of working in the fashion industry. She is now the Communications Manager at Fashion Mingle and resides in Los Angeles.

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Victoria Roberts

Born in Brazil, Victoria moved to the United States to pursue her dream of working in the fashion industry. She is now the Communications Manager at Fashion Mingle and resides in Los Angeles.